Pikes Peak River Runners

Oregon Coast Adventures

by Pete and Christina King

General Information | Distance | Weather | Camping/Restaurants | Activities | Things to Bring | Reading | Links | Mile by Mile | Favorite Lighthouses | Table of Tidepools

This is not a river story but a guide to the Oregon Coast - one of our favorite places to visit. Yes, we pass by some whitewater rivers along our coastal travels but have never run any rivers in Oregon or California.  Friends and family have asked why we keep returning again and again, this webpage attempts to explain why. Unfortunately, this webpage only gives you a taste of Oregon, there is much more to the coast than we have been able to capture here.  Enjoy!

General information:

Distance:  It is about 3,000 miles round trip from Woodland Park, CO to the Oregon Coast.  We typically go from Astoria (south on Hwy 101) to San Francisco and home through Lake Tahoe.  It is a long way there and back but slow down and enjoy the time you spend on the coast.  We usually drive quickly across Colorado, Utah, Idaho and Oregon and then slow down dramatically once we get to the Columbia River Gorge.  Aire and Cascade Outfitters (Maravia) are fun stops in Boise which can break up the trip.  Once you reach Hwy 101 in Oregon, unless you are a logging truck or large RV, my advice is to give way to these big rigs.  They will not shift over and will win if they hit you.  We also prefer to travel north to south to enjoy the "ocean" side vistas on the highway closest to the ocean, plus we get to end the trip in San Francisco (the big city) after weeks of beaches mostly to ourselves.  I believe that the Oregon coast is fairly crowded during the summer months but know it has been virtually empty in early June and Oct-Dec when we have traveled there. We have even commented that if we see someone else on a beach, we say "what are they doing on our beach!"

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Weather:  It can rain a lot, be mentally and physically prepared (rain slickers) and do not let it stop any beach and hiking activities you have planned.  We have visited in early June (nice weather and not crowded) and numerous times at the end of November through early December.  Surf and storms can be quite intimidating but also exciting.  It gets dark early in the winter so plan on dining at restaurants for dinner when possible.  Hint:  An odd trend I have noticed is that most seafood markets seem to be located on the south end of towns. I do not know why.   Temperatures (even in December) can be mild (highs of 50 to 60's).  We have had warm trips and cold/rainy trips - all were great.  Note the numerous Tsunami warning signs that abound along the coast.  I wish you good luck if you hear the sirens.  We have heard communities test the sirens but since most of the Oregon State Parks on this stretch are on the beach, my guess is that most campers would find it impossible to escape if a Tsunami arrives quickly.  It would be incredibly difficult to run to high ground for safety in the middle of the night.   High ground can be far away.

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Camping/Restaurant ratings:  Almost all of the Oregon state park campsites are open year round and MOST have showers included (they do not have to worry about freezing temperatures and no separate coins are needed for showers).  There are lots of Yurts available also.   I would recommend against tent camping if you can avoid it because packing up wet rain tents EVERY day can get old quickly.  In my opinion, Oregon State Parks are the best in the country!  They are usually located on prime beachfront real estate with soft sand dunes, steep cliffs, brilliant sunsets, colorful tide pools, hiking/biking trails, etc....Go to www.oregonstateparks.org to get the details.  My impression is that relatively few hotels are directly on the beach.  The state parks are the best!  I have set up a personal rating system for some of the camps mentioned below that also applies to my personal restaurant ratings as well!  I am usually not a fan of clam chowder but this coast produces a delicious product.

***** = Excellent
**** = Good
***= Average
** = Poor
* = Do not stay/eat here!
     

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Activities:
-Hiking
-Biking
-Crabbing
-Tidepooling or see below
-Fishing
-Shelling
-Rockhounding
-Whale watching
-Boating- both ocean and whitewater
-Aquariums- Oregon Coast Aquarium
-Walking the beaches
-Seafood- opportunities abound for delicious dining out or the ability to purchase fresh seafood to cook at home or at camp

Whale watching tips:  bring good binoculars, unless you have seen whales spouting before I recommend stopping if you see a lot of people at a viewpoint.  The pro's can help you spot them.  Calm seas help when spying for whale spouts. Once you have spotted one whale, you can usually recognize whales on your own the next time around.

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Things to bring:
-Rain slickers
-Ball caps with brims (to keep rain out of your eyes)
-Camera
-Good binoculars
-Dog- they will love the beach! (do not forget to use pooper scooper mitts)
-Hiking boots (waterproofed)- Teva's are too cold in the off-season

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Recommended Reading:

Mile by Mile Guide - FREE! - order it by calling 1-888-628-2101
Annual Tide Charts & Tide Pools- pick up materials at any Oregon visitor center
The Journals of Lewis & Clark by Stephen Ambrose
Undaunted Courage by Stephen Ambrose
Oregon Coastal Access Guide
Magnificent Places:  Oregon Coast
Photographers Guide to the Oregon Coast
Subscribe to the Oregon Coast Magazine 800-348-8401

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Useful Links:
Oregon State Parks
Oregon Coast Visitors Association
Pacific 101
Central Coast
Columbia River Gorge

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Mile by Mile:  Our favorite spots....

Before you reach the coast: 

Favorite grocery store to stock up on groceries and supplies = Fred Meyers stores.

The Columbia River Gorge is located before you reach the Pacific (Oregon) coast, follows Lewis & Clark travels, great camping along the Columbia River at Boardman Marina & RV park **** (favorite campsites along the river include; #30, 29, 26, 27, 28, 15, 17, 19, 21 if you want to make a reservation 888-481-7217).  The cafe across the highway at Boardman has good clam chowder*** (Friday's only).  Enjoy the scenic ride along the Interstate highway (I-84) and Columbia River Gorge including the Hood River Gorge section (popular windsurfing area).  If you are lucky you might catch a glimpse of Mt. Hood in your drive towards Portland.  It is really hard to imagine Lewis & Clark canoeing down the river. Cielo Park is a good stop to see the waterfalls (Bonneville dam system) along the Columbia and get a good look at the Indian fishing platforms hovering over and into the river.  The City Park, Windseeker Rest area and the Discovery Center (all in The Dalles) are nice scenic stops. If you want to spend the night in the area, the Best Western in The Dalles has a great overlook on the Columbia. The Dalles dam/fish ladder tour is closed after Oct 31 but looks interesting.  We noticed a good looking campsite , Mary Hills State Park across the river (on the Washington side) on the Hwy 97 turnoff but we have never stayed there.  Multnomah Falls are a must-see stop with a short hike right before you reach Portland. 

Astoria:  Quaint town at the mouth of the Columbia River.  Wonderful restaurants, shops and ships.  The Best Western in Astoria has a Columbia river view (if not foggy) and the Red Lion Inn overlooks the Astoria Marina.  We have never visited the Astoria Column but it promises an excellent view of the Columbia River.  The Columbia River Maritime Museum is a must-see visit with really interesting artifacts.  The Baked Alaska restaurant is fancy ($$$) but the clam chowder (really seafood chowder) can not be beat (****).  Look for seals in the river below the docks.  Gunderson's Cannery Cafe is also good ($$$).  We have stayed in Astoria once but prefer staying in the Fort Stevens area instead.  Astoria has a strong Finnish (scandanavian longshore men) history.  They even celebrate the Scandinavian holiday (Santa Lucia).

Fort Stevens (*****):  Has a shipwreck (the Peter Iredale), seals, bike trails, lots of hiking, mouth of the Columbia River access, Coast Guard station nearby, ***** star clam chowder at Doogers Restaurant in nearby town of Seaside, Pig n Pancake in Seaside and Cannon Beach is the perfect breakfast place (Swedish crepes with Lingonberries), numerous beach access areas, historical replica of Lewis & Clark Fort Clatsop nearby (burned down in 2005), Lewis & Clark salt works, full camps with showers.  Favorite areas at Fort Stevens include the South Jetty viewpoint (usually see seals here) and the hike at the end of Clatsop spit to watch freighters fight the spectacular currents and hike along the shore where the Columbia meets the Pacific Ocean.  What more can I say, it is perfect! 

FYI:  Seaside Aquarium is depressing (do not visit or support this particular type of aquarium*).  Think seals trapped in a backyard swimming pool.

Cannon Beach- photos usually in all Oregon vistas (Haystack Rock), very art-oriented community, great drive/hikes in Ecola State park (coastal rain forest and coastal hiking trail), also has a Dooger's Restaurant*****.  Good beach access and parking at Tolovana? Beach City Park near Mo's Restaurant (clam chowder***0.5). 

Garibaldi is a great town with the wonderful Bay Front bakery (great bread). Tillamook just down the road is famous for their cooperative cheese factory (interesting self-guided tour where you can watch workers make real cheese).  The town really smells like cows.  Make sure you enjoy a smooth and creamy Tillamook ice cream cone before you leave. 

We highly recommend the Three Capes Scenic route which includes Cape Meares (lighthouse, cliffs, Octopus tree hike, no beach access), Cape Lookout (**** camp on beach, no beach sand at high tide, showers) and Cape Kiwanda.   Cape Kiwanda's Oceanside beach *****has a cave that goes through a cliff (at low tide) to another beach.  It is like walking through a time portal .  Be careful to avoid bonking your head on the low cave ceilings (bring a flashlight) and do not get caught on the wrong side by a rising tide.  This is a good spot to hunt for Oregon "jade" and agates near cave opening.  Tidepools are *** at low tide. 

Cape Kiwanda's Pelican Pub Brewery (clam chowder - smoky flavor with other seafood and bacon***** , crab cakes *) is a great spot to warm up after exploring the cave/beaches and watching dories launch into the surf.  If you are lucky you can watch the Pacific Dory fleet launch and land in the surf.

Lincoln City had a Sports Bar called Mulligan's with NFL ticket (for those KC Chiefs Sunday's)- we have been the only ones there in the past and wonder if it will stay in business.  Nightlife is non-existent (i.e. few movie theaters or shops open after dark in the off season).  Most tourists appear to enjoy day activities such as hiking, beach stuff and rent movies (instead of going out). Most restaurants and shops do not seem to be overly busy during the off-season.   Just the way we like it.  Just south of Lincoln City lies an interesting historic district (and a Mo's restaurant ***0.5).  This is a really fun place to watch fishermen and crabbers (bait is raw chicken).  Check out the salmon sculpture in the park above the crabbers. 

Depoe Bay is a nice small town with good viewpoints just before and after the bay.  It is very entertaining to watch storm waves surf up the seawall and spray unsuspecting tourists.  They get drenched.  I think Depoe Bay also has a Bayfront Bakery with warm bread. 

Cape Foulweather has a good viewpoint and gift shop.

Otter Crest Loop is a nice detour (not for trailers- no turnaround).  Make sure you stop at the Devils Punchbowl area.  

Beverly Beach -* camp on the wrong side of the highway- no beach access, no sand beach at high water.

Newport:  Oregon Coast Aquarium, huge marina with lots of crabbing/fishing boats, historic Bayfront district with Coast Guard station, lots of seals on docks behind fishing company loading/warehouse areas (listen for their noise), Jack's Seafood shack (fresh steamed crab ****enjoyed on an outdoor stool, clam chowder ***, Whale's Tale restaurant (**** but pricey), Nye Beach (Agate beach) on other end of Newport (good beach access and fun shops), Chowder Bowl (Clam chowder ****), La Quinta (near Aquarium) reasonable rates using the Entertainment Book discount, Newport Cafe (good breakfast, near Laundromat on the main drag- Hwy 101).  Do not forget to get your free online Newport passport card for discounts at local businesses before you visit.  The first two weeks of December are typically crab season and crab pots abound stacked absurdly tall on the fishing boats at the docks.

South Beach **** camp, grassy area near beach, lots of trails, showers. 

From Newport to Carl Washburne area there are lots of beach access points, hiking trails and many places to stop.  Enjoy!

Beachside camp *****, right on the beach, closed after Oct 31, has showers and can be wild during storms.  If it is open, I strongly recommend camping here.

Tillicum ***** Forest Service camp, on the beach, favorite campsite #'s (18, 13, 15,17), no showers or hookups but you can go to Beachside or Carl Washburne to buy a shower only if you want.  Arrive early or make reservations, there are not many campsites at this small campground. 

Carl Washburne *, wrong side of highway, no beach nearby but it has showers.

Cape Perpetua- visitor center (closed in winter), excellent tidepools*****.  Make sure you walk to the Spouting Horn to see the spectacular waves smash into the narrow cleft in the Cook's chasm.

Heceta Head lighthouse viewpoint- after tunnel area before Sea Lion caves

Sea Lion caves- we have never stopped here, seems like a tourist trap, why pay to see seals when you can see them every day on your own? 

Florence- fun to visit historic district, International Seafood Market *** clam chowder (kind of bland).  Mo's Restaurant is here too (***0.5).  Seals are seen along the docks of the Siuslaw river.

Oregon Dunes area- inland, no beach access or ocean views, lots of ATV (off-road activity).

Umpqua camp* (dark camp with no scenic views of ocean)

Reedsport (Umpqua Discovery Center**), sounded like an interesting place to visit but actual artifacts were sparse.

Sunset beach/ camp*** (near Coos Bay)- good tidepools****, can go swimming easily here, campsite kind of dark because of dense trees, aptly named because of beautiful sunsets.  Shore Acres botanical garden also here but we were not interested in visiting this attraction. 

Bullards Beach camp ****- Coquille lighthouse, good rock hounding on beach, miles of empty beaches, showers, stacks of driftwood in odd shapes, good view of the town of Bandon across the bay and active fishermen in dories at the mouth of river.  Be sure to stop for free samples at the Cranberry Sweets store in Bandon. 

Cape Blanco camp ****, lighthouse, spectacular sunset views, hiking, can be very windy, showers. 

Gold Beach - Rogue river ends here, jetboat tours upriver in summer (do not run in winter), Port Hole restaurant *

Gold Beach to Brookings has lots of great views, hiking, beach access but no camping until you reach Harris Beach state park.

Arch Rock- great short walk, unsurpassed sunset photos.

Harris Beach State Park camp *****, cliffs, unbelievable photo opportunities, showers.  Nearby town of Brookings is last town in the south end of the Oregon coast.  Hungry Clam and Chetco Seafood Company both have ***** clam chowder.  Delaney's bakery**** a must stop before you leave town in the morning.

California here we come.  Minimal beach access, Klamath river after Crescent City (hit by Tsunami in 1964).  There is one last wonderful beach access point shortly after Crescent City (unfortunately we can not remember the beach name).  We have seen very large bear tracks in the dark (almost black sand) on this beach.   This is a day use area with great picnic tables, shelters and beach to walk along.  

Redwoods National park is spooky and dark.  We make the long haul from Harris Beach to Petaluma (and visit Clavey) or Santa Rosa in one long day of slow curvy driving.  We find that the long stretch of road between Crescent City (via Eureka, etc... ) to approximately Ukiah is filled with strange people. Arcata has a large population of blatent drug users right in the middle of the historic downtown area and the roadside stops along Hwy 101 are filled with people on the fringe of society.  Bright points along the drive include the South Fork of the Eel and Russian Rivers.  We wish there were better spots to spend the night and break up this long drive but have never been successful in picking an alternative stop.

Hwy 1:  We have driven Hwy 1 occasionally but this is a very difficult drive with no beach access at all.  Hwy 1 is all cliffs and twisty slow turns.  Few towns (did enjoy Mendocino) along the way until you reach Bodega Bay.   No camping along this stretch.  We recommend using Hwy 101 instead of Hwy 1.

San Francisco- make sure to visit Point Reyes National Park and Golden Gate National Recreation Area.  Pier 19 is our favorite location in the downtown area.  Terrentino's **** clam chowder, ***** fresh steamed/cracked crabs.  Parking is very difficult in downtown San Francisco especially if you have a big vehicle.  Terrentino's will validate your parking if you use the Pier 19 parking lot (look for the signs).

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Interesting and Scenic Oregon Lighthouses:  many have free tours
Cape Meares
Yaquina Head
Yaquina Bay
Heceta Head
Umpqua River
Cape Arago
Coquille River
Cape Blanco

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Favorite Tide Pools and my notes:

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