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Grand Canyon 2001: A Journey through Heaven and Hell By Pete and Christina King Day 1, Aug 6, 2001: Hot Na Na
An excellent old book to hunt up at your local library if you can
find it (printed in early 1900's) and fun to read while in the Canyon, by the Kolb
brothers: Our group consists of the Peter Way (permit holder) family [wife Frances, and children, Monica (13) and Daniel(11)], Pete and I (Christina) King, Chris Canady and Dan Eriksen (from New Hampshire, yes they drove all the way!), Ralph Hoffman, Beth Buller, Mel Lips and son Julien (12), and William Henry Crew III. Peter Way and William Henry kayaked (sort of) and the rest of us rowed our rafts with passengers. River Ranger, Dave Chapman, gave us an excellent talk about the rules and regulations on the river. Not only did he explain the rules but elaborated on the reason why the rules were in place. Daves appreciation for the Grand Canyon was apparent during his presentation. We also appreciated his swamp cooler. We promised to send him some pictures of our trip illustrating his points. The river flows are predicted to be highs of 18,000-20,000 cfs and lows of 9,000 cfs. The forecast turned out to be correct, we enjoyed moderate water levels for the entire trip.
Day 2, Aug 7, 2001: Silver Grotto We rose early and began to pattern our lives around the rising and setting of the sun. We still struggle as a group to launch at a reasonable time.
We passed the Boulder Narrows section with the huge boulder (w/ driftwood on top). There must have been amazing high river flows to put that driftwood on top of the massive boulder! The Roaring 20s series of rapids proved to be easy but Peter Way just couldnt master his roll and ended up bailing out of his kayak (and swimming almost every rapid). We pulled into Silver Grotto for camp and spotted the craziest driftwood shapes perched on logs. Chris tries on a driftwood shape that looks exactly like a mask with eyes, nose and mouth. William Henry introduces us to a game called Ammo Can tonight. Ammo Can is played like tug of war between two people standing on ammo cans (small cans 20 feet apart) with a rope in between. The rope is left on the ground and quickly picked up (by both players facing each other) and pulled in at the Start command. The goal is to pull your opponent off of the ammo can first and the player left standing on the ammo can wins. I think Monica was the reigning champion. The Southwest monsoons make their first appearance tonight so we tarp the kitchen and put up tents. Good thing we do because it rains off and on all night. We decide to save the Silver Grotto (side canyon) exploration until tomorrow morning. Day 3, Aug 8, 2001: Overhang
We started the day with clouds and cool temperatures. At
breakfast the first mention of missing forks is made. Missing forks become a mystery as
our trip progresses.
Peter Way and Daniel did a fair amount of unplanned swimming from
their kayak and ducky. We had no rapids of significance today. Dana earned the first
"semi-valuable" prize of the trip for spotting the first Nautiloid fossil at the
side canyon of the same name. Day 4, Aug 9, 2001: Nankoweep We had a nice dry night under our cliff Overhang. When we awoke, the river had turned bloody red during the night and dropped quite a bit. Beths boat took a lot of work to get her off a tightly wedged rock. A side canyon (maybe the Paria) had flashed and the clear river would be muddy the rest of our trip.
We had an easy schedule up to this point having only gone 52 miles in 4 days. Our group is still struggling to make this easy mileage. These first four days were designed to be the break-in period. I also noticed that the group whining level seems to be escalating (heat, rain, sand, miles to go before we sleep, getting going in the morning, blisters, heavy boats, hauling trash, groover duty, etc .). Day 5, Aug 10, 2001: 12 hours @ Nevills We ran Kwagunt rapid first thing this morning and enjoyed the big
waves. Further downstream, we pulled into the Little Colorado River (LCR) and thoroughly
enjoyed the muddy almost chocolate pudding consistency of the water. The highlight of the
stop was playing "Crack the Whip" in the LCR current. The Tanner Wash stretch is a long section of the canyon and we were tired when we reached Unkar Delta. We looked at the ancient Anasazi pottery chards and scouted Unkar rapid at the same time. The rapid focused everyones attention on the river and not on the Anasazi ruins. There were "extra" exciting runs through Unkar but everyone made it fine. Our plan was to camp at Nevills that night. Nevills is a great camp because it is large, flat and receives early shade. It was here the missing forks mystery became a crisis as hungry boaters pondered the possibility of eating BBQ pork with spoons. The mystery of the missing forks began to unravel though as Peter Way showed several of us his policy for dealing with dirty forks. He throws them into the sand and under the tables "so that we clean them later" .Hmmm?
Day 6, Aug 11, 2001: Trinity Creek
Day 7, Aug 12, 2001: Evacuation Beach (below Crystal)
With confidence shaken, a mile and a half behind us and 20
scheduled miles to go, our group heads across the longest ½ mile of quiet water, the flat
stretch between Granite and Hermit rapids. Peter Way chose to return to his kayak for
another attempt at Hermit. Twelve years ago, Peter Way had flipped early in the rapid and
had to swim the majority of the monstrous waves. History repeats itself! The rafts had
better success as everyone accomplished the "left sneak" to one degree or
another. Our next stop was to scout Crystal. We had hoped to watch a
couple of motor rigs run the rapid but they pulled in above the rapid for lunch instead.
After discussing the run at Crystal, Pete and I ran first with Beth close behind us. We
all ran well and turned around to watch everyone else. Mel was in trouble. The
conservative run at Crystal rapid requires timing a hard ferry to the right while rowing
backwards (downstream). The boatman is required to continue rowing until they clear the
lateral waves on the right and pass the large holes in the center of the rapid. Mel took
one (and only one) pull to the right, gave up, straightened the boat out and promptly
flipped in the first hole. Lower Crystal and Mel and Juliens reluctance to let go of
their flipped NRS raft made it difficult to pull them from the river. However, Frances,
Monica and Daniel had practiced their rescue skills and hauled them in with finesse. They
had already practiced in the calm waters with Dana. We are turning into quite a rescue
team. Then Pete, Beth and I shoved the upside down loose boat into shore. I was able to
grab it and secure it to shore. During our rescue of Mel and Julien, Peter Way had flipped
his kayak and was swimming again. Chris and William Henry (the other kayaker) rescued
Peter Way. Unfortunately, we later found out that Peter Way had dislocated his shoulder
during his swim and had asked to be evacuated out immediately. Chris relayed the bad news
about Peter Way. The Way family had brought two-way walkie-talkies so we turned ours on
after flipping Mels boat back over. Mel had lost two oars but still had his two
spares. He didnt lose anything else. They couldnt move Peter Way easily but
Chris had ran up the rocky and steep river bank ("it was like running on bowling
balls") and contacted the motor rig seconds before they pulled out of their lunch
spot above Crystal. They had seen our flip but had no idea that we had a hurt kayaker.
Peter Way was in a poor position for transport (along a cliff wall with lots of current
and boulders). Grand Canyons Expeditions (GCX) head boatman (Art) did some delicate
and skillful maneuvering of his motor rig to pick Peter Way up and eventually they had him
moved down river to "Evacuation Beach".
After the helicopter and GCX left, we decided to camp on this very beach. Going down river that late in the day seemed like a poor decision. We had only traveled six miles, missed lunch and spent the entire day in rescue/evacuation mode. We were stunned and tired. Pete and I quickly made dinner and the weather deteriorated with a major storm right after dinner. We scrambled to set up tents and barely made it inside before the rain began. It rained all night. Rockfalls tumbled down behind our tents during the night. All of us struggle to survive Day 7 mentally and physically the Grand Canyon is throwing the tough stuff at us. Day 8, Aug 13, 2001: Big Dune (above Blacktail Canyon)
I make a little mistake in Sapphire rapid and unintentionally hit the second hole on the right. It was a big hit but we surfaced through the wave just fine. The Peter Way remaining members (Frances, Monica and Daniel) have been remarkably positive and keep things upbeat in our boat. Children bounce back quickly and they vow to write notes to Dad every night and are making the best of the situation. Frances is coping well considering this is not what she had expected. Pete mentions several times to me through the course of the trip how he is impressed with Frances she has become a real strength for our trip. It is today that Monica declares this trip "an adventure not a vacation". Everyone agrees. Monica is rowing at least once a day and both children have rowed some small rapids. They often speak of looking forward to seeing their Dad at Diamond Creek to share their stories.
Twenty-four hours ago the Canyon was throwing the tough stuff at us. But now, we are starting to see the magical side of running this river. The skies have cleared, a light breeze dries our gear while we enjoy one of the best camps in the area - Big Dune. Unfortunately, some of the group focuses on "getting out of here" .and dont seem to appreciate the Grand Canyons "other moods". Day 9, Aug 14, 2001: Owl Eyes
While running Fossil rapid, Mel fell out and lost one of his oars. Julien jumped up on the oars, slapped on the spare and rescued his Dad. Julien was the "Hero for the Day". When we eddied out to help, "Eagle-eye" Chris spotted Mels oar swirling in the eddy and William paddled up in his kayak and retrieved it. We pulled back out into the current after this mishap only to watch William Henry swim in a swirly current further down river. Pete tried to rescue him and then we stopped at a shady spot above Randys Rock to have lunch. We cant seem to shake our group jitters. Pete and I fear that we might have trouble at Specter and Bedrock rapids but everyone runs well. We run Deubendorf rapid and Pete gets a big ride on the waves, which I sneak. They look too big for me.
We set up camp at Owl Eyes and hold dinner for our hikers. Ralph
dabbles in the kitchen preparing spaghetti for 12 while a heat exhausted Mel moans from a
paco pad under the tamarisk. As dusk falls and Beth is over due, the mere mention that
Beth might have trouble in the Tapeats riffle sends panic through the heart of the
parents; while Frances prays, Mel puts his lifejacket on and retrieves his throw rope from
his boat. Fortunately, minutes later, Beth floats into camp with Monica and Julien. Ralph
pulls his meatballs from Beths cooler for the spaghetti, fires up the stove and we
eat in the dark again. While Ralph fusses about having to do dishes at 9 PM ; the monsoons
threaten and up go the tents.
Day 10, Aug 15, 2001: Upset Hotel
We planned on running Upset rapid without a scout but a microburst (or macro, from our perspective) of severe wind, rain, and rock falls forced us to abandon the run at the last minute and eddy out above the rapid. Stones from the canyon rim hit our heads and the wind made the rapid impossible to read (due to whitecaps). Abort! Abort! everyone yelled. Thank goodness we were wearing helmets because the stones were bouncing off our helmeted heads. We waited about 20 minutes or so on the shore while scouting then ran the rapid. Ralph dumped over the big domer rocks on the right side. Pete kidded Ralph about knocking the domer over rather than rowing around it. It was difficult to pull away from the big hole at the bottom but we managed. Beth got a piece of the hole but escaped safely. Beth remembered a good camp at Upset Hotel with a nice overhang. There is no need for tents since we were very cozy underneath our cliff shelter. The Hawaiian theme for dinner tonight is complete with leis and Pina Coladas. Day 11, Aug 16, 2001: National Canyon We woke up from a restless night, letting the boats out a lot.
This is not a friendly tie up for the rafts. I have noticed that Ralph and Mel have rarely
checked their boats during this trip. We have unbeached their boats frequently and
Mels boat this morning had the most amazing perch. We pulled into the mouth of Havasu Creek for a relaxing day. Everyone did their own thing, some napped, others hiked, and others enjoyed the scenery at nooks along the creek. Havasu Creek itself was murky from rain. We row 10 miles and camp at National. Pete patched Ralphs boat floor. We had to bail out in tents again due to rain at dinnertime. Beth receives an award for the best kayak throw. Beth and William Henry prepare another of their great meals. Tonight the restriction about discussing Lava Falls has been lifted! Nervousness abounds and Mel and Julien look sick from worry. It is a hot and humid night we spend at National. Day 12, Aug 17, 2001: Whitmore Wash There is a long and difficult row to Lava Falls rapid.
William Henry ran Mels boat for him through Lava, while Mel and Julien both walk around. Mel is physically and mentally exhausted. The Grand has beat him up. Ralph has described the trip as work, sweat and terror. Chriss rebound from being sick and his flip is short-lived as he injures his back rowing to Lava Falls. He is barely able to move around by the end of the day.
Day 13, Aug 18, 2001: Dory (Mile 222) Today is our big mileage day. We need to row 32 miles plus. We talked about the plan the night before and psyche the group up to do it. We typically do a long 32-mile day at the end due to heat and lack of major side hikes. It is better to float rather than bake in camp. We meet our goal of 20 miles by lunch and then coast in the last 14 miles (and actually go 2 miles extra). Mel has another mishap and surfs in a hole while Julien jumps out because he thought the boat would flip again. Once again, we pick up Julien. Pete and I plan a "traditional" Georgie White last meal in the Grand Canyon diner a pot full of cans without their labels, "dig in and good luck" Georgie would say. The significance of this small but historic tradition was lost. We all look in disbelief at a large storm passing across Diamond Peak. August is the month that storms wash out the road at Diamond Creek and this storm looks capable of doing just that. This group is whipped and the thought of rafting several more days and running additional significant rapids is horrific. IF the road is closed, we talk about the possibility of Peter Way sending a boat for us out of Pearce Ferry. The monsoons continue all night. Day 14, Aug 19, 2001: Diamond Creek takeout (226 miles) We get up early in the morning to reach the takeout before storms threaten to wash out the only road out. Who know what this group would do if we had to float 2 more days to Pearce Ferry?! The takeout is OPEN and very crowded. Canyon REO, our shuttler, shows up at 8:30 am and we load. No sign of Peter Way and shuttle drivers have no information. The Diamond Creek road is in great condition and we stop at our traditional Delgadillos lunch restaurant on the way back to Flagstaff. I call Canyon REOs office and find out that Peter Way is fine and flew home to Colorado. The group is shocked and never entertained the thought that Peter would not be at the takeout (or waiting for us in Flagstaff). Frances has to face a two-day drive home with children. Thats tough, but she has hung in there every day and made "lemonade out of lemons". Monica Way said it best "this isnt a vacation this is
an adventure"! A trip through the Grand Canyon is an unforgettable experience. The
logistics are a nightmare; requiring everyone to plan, purchase and pack food/supplies
that will last a lifetime (okay
two weeks or so). Two weeks in a desert environment
is both physically and mentally challenging. The heat can be stifling and the water
overpowering. Yet, how do you not fall in love with this place? The Grand Canyon forces you to "step up to the plate" and face your fear and limitations "head on" day after day. There is a reason guides spend their lives here, people give their fortunes to protect it and the river community has made it the most sought after permit of all time. But the river is different for everyone. If you were to ask a veteran of the Canyon, why do you keep going back? they probably cant tell you, or they wont. All they know is the overwhelming urge to return season after season. |